Mysticism in Bosnia and Hercegovina

This is an article that I wrote that was originally published on travelhoppers.com

Twelve Dervish musicians sit hunched over their easels, the hem from their long black capes resting on the floor. In unison they begin to pluck the strings of their wooden instruments and tap the skin of their kettledrums. This marks the beginning of the ancient Sama ceremony. The first monk stands up, shedding his black cloak in a spiritual rebirth before crossing his arms against his chest, representing the number one, an interpretation of God’s unity. With a camel’s hair hat perched atop his head, the first monk begins to rock and then slowly spin round and round. With speed his white skirt fans itself out, shedding all concern and worry for the outside world. He outstretches his arms, his right reaching for the sky, open to God, while the left points to the ground, revealing the Earth’s gifts. He continues to spin until he cannot see the others in the room, until he cannot hear his own voice hum the old Islamic hymn, until he cannot help but feel God’s presence enveloping him in a numbing trance. 

The Sama ceremony, or more commonly known as whirling, is but one of many Sufi traditions of the Dervish monks performed to achieve greater religious enlightenment and ecstasy. Originating with the devotees of the Mevlevi order in Turkey in the 12^th century, Sufi whirling spread throughout the Middle East, various parts of the Balkans, and along with many other Turkish traditions, prospered in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Just 15km southeast of the city of Mostar, in the resurfacing village of Blagaj, lies a religious phenomenon not many of us are familiar with; Sufism.

Built in the 16^th century under the rule of Mostar Mufti, Tekija, a Dervish monastery, is a symbol of faith for the Sufis, an ascetic sect of Islam. The Dervish order promotes a life dedicated to prayer, Islam, and meditation. A vow of poverty teaches the monks a life of humility through begging which they may never use to subsidise their own needs but must instead give back to the poor in the community as an act of selfless charity. This particular group of devotees also offers religious counselling for people who seek their assistance.

The Tekija, its interior walls adorned with Islamic art and old scriptures, is nestled alongside a 200m high cliff where the Buna River surfaces in a steady emerald stream. It has been protected by the State since 1952 and is considered an iconic stronghold for the Bosnian people. Beginning at the monastery is a 30-45min heritage trail that tours the ancient Ottoman village, by-passing the 17^th century Velagic house and a handful of old flour mills powered by the Buna River. After a leisurely stroll through the old village, seat yourself along one of the river’s many restaurants and dive head first into the mystical energies that float along the Buna with some local eats. Give your taste buds a whirl with a steaming plate of Ćevapi, accompanied by a traditional Bosnian beer.

 

Experiencing a foreign country’s religion requires an open mind. It can be controversial, unnerving, and downright confusing at times. I understand that the Bosnian Dervish monks are of a peculiar sort and a million miles away from ordinary. But half the fun of traveling is packing your curiosity and leaving the comforts of home right where they belong. If you’re able to make that hurdle past the nitty-gritty technicalities, and really submerse yourself in a foreign culture, you won’t be disappointed. With the Persian translation for Dervish meaning “one who opens the doors”, ask yourself, will that be me?

Mostar, Bosnia and Hercegovina!

Next stop: Montenegro

Two furgons, two buses, and one taxi later, I was in Kotor, Montenegro.

The “Black Mountain”: Coastal Montenegro

Monte-what? Referred to time and time again as the “Black Mountain,” Montenegro is a tick-tack sized country squeezed smack dab in the middle of the Adriatic bordering states. Just a thumbtack on the map of Europe, but full to the brim with exquisite landscapes, Montenegro leaves you wondering how this tall drink of water is often overlooked when discussing Europe’s Fave Five.

First mentioned in the 9^th century as a Byzantine vassal, the country has spent its entire existence shuffling from one umbrella’d wing to another. But Montenegro managed to remain unsullied goods through times of war and bloodshed, plague, and decimating earthquakes. In 2006 it was granted independence from Serbia, becoming the Republic of Montenegro. But because of this shared dominance between the Balkan states throughout history, Montenegro has grown into the flourishing multi-cultural haven we know and love today.

Mary, the American Doctor I bounced around the Balkans with.

But let’s fast forward to what you’ve all been waiting for; coastal Montenegro. It’s characterized by its rocky beaches and unparalleled sapphire waters, warm and sub-tropical climate, and tiny shore hugging villages. The Bay of Kotor, named one of the world’s most beautiful bays, is agreeably one of the country’s most cherished jewels. As the dwelling place for Montenegro’s most squandered and romantic treasures, the Kotor Bay dazzles the eye and captures the soul of the Montenegrin people. Confused with being a fjord, this naturally submerged river canyon looks as though it was hollowed out with a deep spoon, filled with dripping emerald waters, and then sealed together by a U-shaped wall of shrub covered mountains.

Kept polished and pristine, the Bay of Kotor is home to the picturesque towns of Risan, Persast, and Kotor. UNESCO recognized heritage site, Kotor remains the highlight of any trip to the Bay. Settled in 168 BC by ancient Romans, it was ultimately chosen due to its advantageous military position along the coast in protecting the Montenegrin people from pirates and other invaders.

Built into the face of the treacherous cliffs that surround the city is St.John’s fortress. Having seen many a day, the strong hold is a compilation of Kotor’s history, but its Byzantine influence is undeniable. The city walls that surrounds the Old Town were built in the 14^th century by the Republic of Venice and much of Kotor’s architecture depicts a Venetian influence.

Within the city walls is the St.Tryphon Cathedral, rebuilt in 1124, which harbours a unique collection of important relics and artefacts that tell the all too enticing story of the city’s history. But let’s not shy away from Kotor’s involvement in the arts. Playing host to various Montenegrin festivals and celebrations each year, Kotor’s managed to captivate artists from around Europe and give fuel to the fire by providing continuous inspiration.

Although the city of Kotor has experienced an influx of tourists, it has yet to be purged of its elegant and somewhat smouldering charm. Sophisticated bars and cafes string along the criss-crossing paths of the city’s Old Town and dip into the coastline that runs outside the city’s walls. Past the souvenir vendors and gelati windows lies the glistening calm water of the Bay that for some reason or another you won’t be able to take your eyes off of.

Crna Gora, monte nero, the Black Mountain, Mali i Zi, Montenegro; known in a thousand different tongues and dialects, but remembered just the same, this golden nugget of a country with its illustriously narrow coastal strip paralleled by dark dramatic mountain peaks is sure to stir the curiosity and passion of even the most bashful of crowds.